We manage to find the beautiful town of Arica, at a time when thankfully the swell was only a measly 6ft or somthing? This spot usually holds up to 20 ft, so i dont think i would be tackling that. The place we were staying at was as epic as the waves, and funny enough the guy who ran it was a big wave charger. His smallest board was a 6´6" gun. Actually he didnt own any other boards than guns.
heres a shot of el gringo doing its thing, there wasnt a wave that came through that didnt have a frothing spitting barrel. It was soo intense, and i read after that, its dangerous to surf it when its too small as this is a board breaking shallow beast.
Taking it to extremes, 100 on the other side of the tiny island that this wave breaks on, the swell pilters out and wraps around to La Isla with long perfect lefts peeling off into the bay.
No comments:
Post a Comment